Henna was first used as a hair colourant around 3 500BC and the use of hair colour has increased so much that nowadays just about everybody does it. The motivation to colour is to enhance the natural colour of a person’s hair, change the colour to your liking or to hide the grey hairs that relentlessly appear as a person ages. Sometimes it is colour just for the fun of it in outrageous colours!
Most of those early dyes could only darken hair and some of the concoctions will raise more than a person’s eyebrows. During the 19th Century a harsh potassium lye solutions was used, and around 1860 hydrogen peroxide was first used as a bleaching agent, initially with some disastrous results, and this was used through to the 1930’s.
All of these were the forerunners to the first commercial chemical hair dye which was initially named ‘Aureole’ but later became much more well known as ‘L’Oreal’. More refinement took place and a company called ‘Clairol’ was formed in the 1930s. These companies really took us into the modern era of hair dye. Stars like Jean Harlow and Marilyn Monroe became sex symbols with their platinum blondes and their opposites like Elizabeth Taylor were the smouldering dark haired stars. Did you know that even Elvis Presley tinted his sandy coloured hair black?
In the 1950s Clairol made further advances and around this time Wella launched their first cream colourant that nourished as well as coloured the hair.
Nowadays hair colour has become part of the monthly shopping list and once a person has found a colour that suits their hair and they like the colour, they are more likely to go a bit lighter or a bit darker, but not dramatically different.
When advising people about hair colour, be sure to ask the right questions in order to help them find a product that is both suitable as well as compatible with their hair, skin tone and even lifestyle.
Temporary colour
These colours are used to create an effect which might be for a special occasion. It acts only on the surface of the hair and is available in gels, rinses, mousse and spray. It coats the surface of the hair and will rinse out completely after the first wash. This kind of colour can be used for first time uses or customers that are very nervous about changing their hair colour.
Semi-permanent colour
This is applied to the hair, but contains no ammonia and is not mixed with a developer such as peroxide. Colour is deposited only on the outside of the hair and a person’s colour is not lifted or changed from the existing hair colour. It will wash out in about four to six shampoos, the main use for this is to add shine or for a temporary effect on blond or bleached hair. This kind of colour is not advised for use on grey hair.
Demi-permanent and permanent colour
These products will contain a dye, an oxidiser such as peroxide and an alkaliser like ammonia. It will penetrate the hair in order to change the hair colour permanently and would have to grow out with the hair. These products can cause hair damage and it would be prudent to follow the instructions carefully.
Demi-permanent colour
A demi-permanent colour contains no ammonia, but could contain an alkaline agent similar to ammonia such as sodium carbonate which is mixed with an activator. There is no permanent lightening of the hair or alteration of existing colour. These products are a good choice for customers who want colour, but may have damaged and over processed hair. The effect of this colour fades gradually over about twenty shampoos, but is good to use for toning, filling highlights or for going darker. Demi-permanent colour is quite effective in masking grey hair, but not as effective as permanent colour.
Permanent colour
This contains ammonia or ammonia substitutes and is mixed with a developer which is usually peroxide. The cuticle of the hair is fully lifted during this process and the natural pigment of the hair is removed, whether the desired end result is lighter or darker and the permanent hair colour is deposited under the cuticle and in the hair shaft. After the colour is activated, the cuticle is closed which helps to seal the new colour inside.
Permanent colour is used when a person wants to go lighter or cover grey hair, and is good for intensifying the tone of the hair. To maintain good colour, hair should be well looked after and conditioned, but will fade after a few weeks. Regrowth will be visible as the hair grows and the visibility thereof will depend on the severity of the colour change. Every four to six weeks more permanent colour should be added to the root area in order to have an even hair colour all over.
What to do and not to do at home
- It is not a good idea to use medicated shampoo on coloured hair as e.g. anti dandruff shampoo contains zinc and will strip the colour somewhat.
- Do not shampoo hair every day and use lukewarm to cool water. In this way, the natural oils of the hair won’t be removed leaving it with healthier sheen. Do not use chlorinated water as chlorine will accelerate the colour fading.
- Use a shampoo and conditioner formulated for coloured hair.
- When ‘doing the roots’ be careful not to put colour on colour as this could result in darker hair and hair damage.
- For a first time client, advise that they really should do the patch test as instructed by manufacturers.
- Process colour for the full duration of time as specified by the manufacturer to ensure correct colour and durability of that colour.
- According to some hairdressers, colour is best applied on hair that is not squeaky clean as the natural oils on the scalp will help protect against the chemicals and limit the possibility of burning the scalp.
Advise customers on the best product they can afford. The better products have better ingredients that will help repair hair from the inside, and the colour promised is more likely to be the desired outcome.
The multinational companies that specialise in hair colour will have better research and will spend more time and money to create a product that is safe and effective, but the instructions should be followed for best results. Companies like L’Oreal, Clairol, Wella and Garnier have been proven in the home colouring arena and their products can be recommended. At the same time, their shampoos, conditioners and other hair care products can be used with the hair colourant of choice for best results. As stated above, hair care products that have been developed for coloured hair will give the best results in the end. Besides, damaged hair will take a long time to grow out and look healthy again. Doing it right the first time does seem like an easier option.
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